IceToolz Crown Race Remover

Product Information

A Deda Elementi stem happened to be hiding in a corner of the workshop—glorious find … had completely forgotten that this piece of goodness was there. So, on it went. Way more elegant that the original piece of ugliness, you have to agree! Rotate the fork by 1/8 of a circle (some 45 degrees), then repeat the process. In this first go around, don’t try to force the blade all the way in – just by about 1 mm.

Having dealings with a paint shop in Taiwan is handy. You can usually convince the owner to do a custom job for you. Matching the Nishiki’s color is no problem. And it’s monochrome. No two or more color combos to complicate the spray. With that core job out of the way we’d then install a spruced-up crank, toe-clip pedals, a new bar and classic shifters. A rider opting for an ‘aggressive’ racing position cuts the fork to fit the stem with no gap between the top of the headset and the stem.The result is even better when you add an attractive new stem. There is still much work to be done on this bike however. After crown race has been pulled, loosen plunger assemblies and remove the CRP-1 and the crown race from the fork. If possible, disconnect cables shift and brake levers. Loosen stem and remove bars and stem from steering column. The bike is a Christmas present and so will not see any use for about 5 weeks as we are in November now.

If play is present, repeat steps “6” and “7” above until play disappears. Adjustment is finished when there is no play in any position as the fork rotates. There are two types of headset, threadless and threaded. The fork, however, is the key to both designs. When replacing the headset (i.e. fork, or steerer bearings), removing the fork crown race (fork cone) can be problematic. Especially if the fork crown is wider than the race, so it can’t be punched off from the bottom. This post will explain the short and simple procedure and note the needed tools. Remove sliding press plate and install cups onto guides. Guides are used to maintain cup alignment while pressing. Cup guides fit most 1-inch and 1-1/8-inch standard headset cups. Before using cup guide, insert guide into cup. If guide appears to jam or is a tight fit, DO NOT use cup guides for that particular headset cup. Do not use cup guides #530-2 if guides press on any preinstalled cup-bearing unit (ex. Chris King® headsets). For headsets not fitting #530-2 cup guides, simply press using threaded press plate and sliding press plate. Pressure on the outer rim of aluminum head cups may visually scar the cups. If not using the guides, it can help to press one cup at at time.It is also possible to replace retainer ball bearings with loose bearings. Grease cups to hold bearings, and place balls into cup shaped races. Leave a wide gap the size of two ball bearings, do not attempt to fully fill cup. The exception to this rule is for threaded headsets that use sealed bearings which are much less sensitive to the amount of torque applied to the top race. CAN I USE A THREADED FORK WITH A THREADLESS HEADSET?